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Author Topic: Round # 1, John Surtees Championship, Hockenheimring GP, November 30th 2017  (Read 1244 times)

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Offline lmntr

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Hockenheimring GP
4.57km
16 Turns
14 Laps
Clear Weather

Offline Mattikake

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Now busy writing a book so not sure what practice I'll be able to put into these but it's worked put quite well just turning up and driving for the tester events. I guess that all changes once it gets competitive!

Offline Skanda-Five

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I've been ridiculously busy with work this week but that's done now so I can start focusing on our new season. It's great to see some new faces signed up alongside some of our old hands. This dual car championship is going to be great. If anyone can contain JAC-1234 we're in for a treat!
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Offline SCClockDr

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Getting my ducks lined up. Managed to improve the Lotus quite a bit. Still a ways to go in the driver skills department. It is on my calendar though.
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Offline JAC-1234

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If anyone can contain JAC-1234 we're in for a treat!

I wish that was the case, a problem with my accelerator means I'll probably running near the back until I get a new set of pedals  :icon_neutral:. But hopefully I can find a quick fix in the mean time

Offline jod08

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Now busy writing a book so not sure what practice I'll be able to put into these but it's worked put quite well just turning up and driving for the tester events. I guess that all changes once it gets competitive!

I was wondering the same thing mate as i was mostly just turning up. With it being open lobby doing loads of practice to then get hit by an idiot and fuck your race up is a piss take. But to be fair there not much you can really do with the cars to gain a massive advantage like the bigger cars. Also after your replay from the last lotus race, damage will be on in the season so anyone colliding like that will be fucked from now on. This plus the engine damage could bring people at the back of the pack back into races.

A problem with my accelerator means I'll probably running near the back until I get a new set of pedals  :icon_neutral:. But hopefully I can find a quick fix in the mean time

  :icon_twisted: :13:  lol whats the problem?

Offline JAC-1234

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:icon_twisted: :13:  lol whats the problem?
I think the spring has given up, and the game only registers the a small portion of the pedal movement. It basically feels like having a large dead zone, so I've stuffed a sock down the back to try and help  :great:

Offline jod08

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What pedal set you got? I had a problem with my T300's out of the box and i had to take it apart and reset the cog on pedal arm to remove the brake dead zone. Not sure i understand what the sock is doing lol

Offline JAC-1234

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Bog standard Thrustmaster pedal set, always planned on getting an upgrade but just never got round to it. I suppose now is a good time   :13:
I opened them up but couldn't really make much sense of the mess I found, hopefully my quick fix will hold up.

Haha, it's hard to explain but it helps me to feel where the pedal is picking up as 100% in game, as it is already at full throttle when only pressed down about 60-70%.
« Last Edit: November 27, 2017, 05:50:PM by JAC-1234 »

Offline nichos1990

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i best get tuning my car setup. i was at the back of the pack with default settings and thought ‘them guys must have tinkered with setups’ oh how wrong i am.

think im upgrading my t150 to a t300 soon though

Offline jod08

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Bog standard Thrustmaster pedal set, always planned on getting an upgrade but just never got round to it. I suppose now is a good time   :13:
I opened them up but couldn't really make much sense of the mess I found, hopefully my quick fix will hold up.

Haha, it's hard to explain but it helps me to feel where the pedal is picking up as 100% in game, as it is already at full throttle when only pressed down about 60-70%.

O that sounds like the linearity is set wrong. Stupid question have you tried a different game to make sure its not the game messing up and also tried a re-calibration lol. You could try updating the firmware of the wheel. There was a wheel update just before p cars 2 i think so i would also try that. Although tarbz had the same problem on his wheel with the brake pedal as you have described. It was registering 100% on the game but with only 50% pedal travel. I dont think he ever fixed it tbf just brought a new wheel. When i fixed mine it was a deadzone built in so the first 20% travel did noting at all and to fix this was a piss take. I had to have the game on with the pedals open and see where the pedal first started to register on the game and then adjust the cog on the pedal arm. Also what i didn't realise is when you bolt it all back together the case adjusts the pedal arm position so i had to do all again  :banghead: lol.

i best get tuning my car setup. i was at the back of the pack with default settings and thought ‘them guys must have tinkered with setups’ oh how wrong i am.

I changed some of the suspension settings on the rookie and lowered the tyre pressures at silverstone and used the same setup since. In the lotus i dont think i changed much apart from the tyre pressures. Skanda seems to know his stuff when it comes to setups but I find setups dont often work for other people's driving style all the time.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2017, 09:31:AM by jod08 »

Offline Skanda-Five

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If anyone needs any guidance on setups, just ask.
I have a stable base setup if anyone wants a good starting point.
Optimists live longer than pessimists.
Turns out they're both right.

Offline JAC-1234

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O that sounds like the linearity is set wrong. Stupid question have you tried a different game to make sure its not the game messing up and also tried a re-calibration lol. You could try updating the firmware of the wheel. There was a wheel update just before p cars 2 i think so i would also try that. Although tarbz had the same problem on his wheel with the brake pedal as you have described. It was registering 100% on the game but with only 50% pedal travel. I dont think he ever fixed it tbf just brought a new wheel. When i fixed mine it was a deadzone built in so the first 20% travel did noting at all and to fix this was a piss take. I had to have the game on with the pedals open and see where the pedal first started to register on the game and then adjust the cog on the pedal arm. Also what i didn't realise is when you bolt it all back together the case adjusts the pedal arm position so i had to do all again  :banghead: lol.

I've tried to calibrate it multiple times and sadly doesn't make a difference neither does going on another game, but I'll see about the update later.

Offline jod08

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I've tried to calibrate it multiple times and sadly doesn't make a difference neither does going on another game, but I'll see about the update later.

Ok kool if they need replacing what set you going for the tp3a or tp3a pros? im tempted to get the pros myself lol. The fanatec ones look awesome but there not compatible with thrustmaster wheels on ps4.

Offline Mattikake

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What about setting one of the wheel buttons as the accelerator? Are they pressure sensitive like on the controller?

Found an hour to do a few laps in both cars today. Currently lapping around 2:00s for the FR and 1:55s in the 25. I've managed to create a very mad setup in the 25 that saved me 2s a lap over maxing the stable setup. It sounds like the rears are spinning constantly but the tyre wear indicator doesn't show it. Possible bug but I'm hoping this is the kind of this JAC has been doing!